How to Tell if a Pokémon Game Is Fake

To tell if a Pokémon game is fake, check four things: a small code physically pressed into the label, a shell color that's right for that exact game, the right markings molded into the back, and a proper Nintendo circuit board inside. Pokémon games are some of the most copied cartridges out there, and many fakes boot and play just fine. So "it works" doesn't prove anything. Each check below takes about a minute and most need no tools.

This guide covers Pokémon games only: Game Boy and Game Boy Color, Game Boy Advance and Nintendo DS. For general checks that apply to every Game Boy cartridge, see how to tell if a Game Boy game is fake.

Quick checks for every Pokémon cartridge

Start here, whatever the game:

• Stamped code in the label. Genuine Game Boy, Game Boy Color and GBA labels have a short code, usually two to four numbers or letters, pressed into the sticker with no ink. Tilt the cart under a light to see it. If it's missing, or it's printed instead of pressed, be suspicious.
• Print quality. Real labels have sharp text and logos. Blurry art, odd fonts, wrong colors or spelling mistakes are giveaways.
• The screw. Game Boy and Game Boy Color carts use a Nintendo security screw (a 3.8mm "gamebit"). GBA carts use a Y-shaped tri-wing screw. A regular Phillips screw is a warning sign, though some genuine carts have had their screw replaced, so don't judge on this alone.
• Price. Pokémon carts sell well. A copy listed far below what the game usually sells for is the most common sign of a fake.

Game Boy and Game Boy Color: Red, Blue, Yellow, Gold, Silver, Crystal

Shell color

Outside Japan, each of these games came in a colored shell:

• Red, Blue and Yellow: red, blue and yellow shells.
• Gold and Silver: gold and silver shells.
• Crystal: a light, see-through blue shell with tiny specks of glitter in the plastic. Many fakes are a darker blue with no sparkle.

Compare the shade with photos of a known genuine copy. Fake shells are often slightly off, like a paler yellow. One more tip: the Japanese releases came in gray shells. A gray Pokémon cart with an English label is not genuine.

Top and back

The top of the cartridge should have "Nintendo GAME BOY™" molded into the plastic in a clean oval. The back should have crisp molded text. Soft, shallow or uneven lettering suggests a copied mold.

Inside the cartridge

If you have the right screwdriver, opening the cart is the most reliable check. A genuine board:

• fills most of the shell and sits snugly
• has "Nintendo" and model codes printed on it (on Game Boy boards these often start with "DMG")
• has chips with printed markings, plus a round coin-cell save battery

A small board held in by plastic clips, a missing battery, or a black blob of epoxy covering the chip means the cart is fake.

Game Boy Advance: Ruby, Sapphire, Emerald, FireRed, LeafGreen

Label and shell

• Label. Compare the label with photos of a known-genuine copy: print quality, colors and finish should match. Many fakes look like flat paper with a plastic coating. The stamped code should be there too, and the front label should show a game code that starts with "AGB-" and ends in the region, like "-USA".
• Shell color. Ruby, Sapphire and Emerald come in deep, see-through red, blue and green. FireRed and LeafGreen are red and green, but more solid and less see-through. A shell in the wrong color, or with the wrong level of transparency, is a red flag.
• Front shell. Real GBA shells have a rectangle imprinted in the plastic behind the label. On some fakes you can see the label through the plastic.

Back of the cartridge

The back should have the oval Nintendo logo, the model number "AGB-002" and "PAT. PEND. MADE IN JAPAN", all molded into the plastic. Pokémon GBA games should all show AGB-002. A different model number, a printed sticker instead of molded text, or blurry lettering are warning signs.

Inside the cartridge

Opening a GBA cart takes a tri-wing screwdriver. Look for "Nintendo" and a board code printed on the circuit board, and printed markings on the chips. Inside the back shell, genuine carts usually show two small square mold marks.

Then check the battery, which depends on the game:

• Ruby, Sapphire and Emerald have a small round battery on the board. Many fakes have a black epoxy blob instead.
• FireRed and LeafGreen have no battery at all, so a missing battery is normal for those two.

Nintendo DS: Diamond, Pearl, Platinum, HeartGold, SoulSilver, Black, White, Black 2, White 2

• Match the codes. The front label has a code like "NTR-IPGE-USA" (that one is SoulSilver). The back of the cartridge has a short code printed in black ink. Its first four characters should match the four in the middle of the front code.
• Shell color for infrared games. HeartGold, SoulSilver, Black, White, Black 2 and White 2 have built-in infrared, and their shells are black, not gray. Hold one up to a bright light: a genuine shell usually glows a dark red or magenta, because the plastic is slightly see-through.
• Molded model number. The back of the shell has a model number molded in. It's "NTR-005" for Diamond, Pearl and Platinum, and "NTR-031" for the infrared games.
• Label shape. Genuine DS labels have a diagonal cut on one lower corner rather than evenly rounded corners.
• The top edge. Genuine DS carts have a small rectangle molded into the top edge. No rectangle means fake.
• The Pokéwalker test. HeartGold and SoulSilver connect to the Pokéwalker over infrared. Most fakes can't. A listing that says "not compatible with Pokéwalker" deserves a closer look.

A dead save battery doesn't mean it's fake

Old Pokémon carts often lose their saves, and that's normal for genuine copies.

• Red, Blue, Yellow, Gold, Silver and Crystal keep saves on a small soldered battery. After enough years it runs out, and the game still plays but can't save. Gold, Silver and Crystal also run a clock, which drains the battery faster. The battery can be replaced with some soldering.
• Ruby, Sapphire and Emerald save to a memory chip that doesn't need power. Their battery only runs the clock. When it dies, the game shows a message that the internal battery has run dry. Saving still works, but time-based events like berry growth stop.
• FireRed and LeafGreen don't have a battery, so they don't have this issue.

The opposite isn't proof either: plenty of fakes save just fine. Judge a cart by the label, shell, markings and board, not by whether it saves.

Buying checklist for Pokémon games

1. Ask for clear photos of the front, back and top, in good light.
2. Look for the stamped code on the label, and check that the shell color is right for the game.
3. For DS games, compare the front and back codes.
4. For anything expensive, ask for a photo of the board, or buy from a seller who shows it.
5. Read the whole description. Words like "reproduction", "custom" or "not compatible with Pokéwalker" matter.
6. Compare the price with what the game usually sells for. If it's far lower, ask why.
7. Buy where you're protected if the item isn't as described.

Once a cart passes these checks, scan it with RetroWorth to see its estimated value by condition and region, and add it to your collection. Knowing the typical value also helps you spot a listing priced too low to be genuine. RetroWorth doesn't check whether a game is real or fake. Its values assume a genuine copy, so do the checks above first. To learn what drives Pokémon prices, read old Pokémon games worth money.

FAQ

Can a fake Pokémon game still save?

Yes. Many fakes save without any problem. A save that works doesn't prove a cart is genuine, and a dead battery doesn't prove it's fake.

Are fake Pokémon games worth anything?

Not as collectibles. They may still be fun to play, but collectors pay for genuine copies. If you sell one, say clearly that it's a reproduction. Reproduction cartridges explained covers this in more detail.

Can I tell if a Pokémon game is fake without opening it?

Usually, yes. The label stamp, shell color, molded markings and, for DS games, the matching codes catch most fakes. Opening the cart is the final check when something still seems off.

Which Pokémon games are faked the most?

The most popular ones, which means the Game Boy and GBA games in particular. Emerald, Crystal, FireRed and the original Red, Blue and Yellow come up often in fake-spotting guides, and HeartGold and SoulSilver are common on DS.